“How oft, in spirit, have I turned to thee
Oh sylvan Wye! Thou wanderer through the woods
How often has my spirit turned to thee!”

The famous poet William Wordsworth wrote the above words whilst above the River Wye near Tintern Abbey. Glorious words for a glorious river. Flowing from the mountains of Plynlimon in Wales it winds its way for approximately 157 miles to the Severn estuary at Chepstow, much of it forming the border between England and Wales. On my way ever to south wales or the south west of England I am drawn to make a small detour to take some part of it in.

The fifth largest of the rivers in the UK it has history, views, forest, woodland and activities all along its route. Whatever your taste, walking, canoeing, fishing, wildlife, historic towns and villages or geological landscape interests are more than catered for and much more. The final 70 odd miles of it is surrounded by an official Area of Outstanding Beauty.

Before it reaches the bigger towns it makes its way through smaller idyllic towns like Hay-on-Wye in the Brecon Beacons National Park. Known as the town of books (it has 30 bookshops selling old or antique books) there is history beyond pages with castles as far back as Norman times and the good scenery to go with it.

A little further along is the only city on the river’s banks, Hereford, a cathedral city. Associated with so much, the home of the British SAS, but also home to Bulmers Cider with the largest cider mill in the world close to Herefords centre. Yes, a sign we are in real apple and pear country here.

As the River Wye comes towards the Forest of Dean and the sandstone gives way to limestone it happens upon Ross-on-Wye. A place with good reason can lay claim to be the birthplace of the British tourism industry. A very popular and busy town with tourists it is not hard to see why. Fantastic panoramic views above and beyond the Wye can be enjoyed but in the town on its banks you will find pretty streets, independent shops and the river is full of, canoeists, boaters and rowers and fishermen hoping for salmon.

This river has all manners of geology all the way down to its mouth into the Severn and as it goes on it makes its stand as the border between England and Wales. From around Hereford to the end it is protected by status for future generations to enjoy. Its varied scenery as it winds down its valley really is quite astonishing. Not just geologically but with hills and plains, trees and fields plus wildlife and activities.

At Chepstow it ends its journey and empties into the Severn estuary. A place in itself worth exploring for its history both in buildings and shipyards as well as the surrounding landscape. It is home to the oldest surviving stone castle in Britain. Built in 1067 by the Normans to stop the Welsh attacking Gloucester.

Again and again you will see that all the way along this river the importance as a barrier as well as for industry becomes all too apparent. Castles, shipping, cathedrals and old famous bridges are all featured but today it adds to the great charm and outstanding beauty this river brings. I enjoy it and have many more miles of it to explore and will do so with joy.

Pembrokeshire, South West Wales is one of kind. It contains the only coastal National Park in the UK with 186 miles of a wonderous coastal path. Variety is more than guaranteed with dramatic cliffs, sandy bays, birds nesting in the seaswept rocks and buildings of history.

My base for this hiking adventure contains more than a little history itself, nevermind beauty. Celtic Haven cottages sit overlooking the sea near Tenby. The cottages are 12 century and buildings with all the comforts you can wish for. Relaxing, spacious, hosted with pride. Magical. The hounds are able to join me here making it even more special to share the fresh air and views with my short legged family.

Wonderful base – 12th century cottage of Celtic Haven

When you have just a couple of days it is so hard to choose which section of the coast to hike. All looks so inviting. Finally a decision was made, to head not too far West from the cottage and hike westwards along the coast. Turned out a great plan.

You do not have to walk many miles at all along the Pembrokeshire coast to see some of nature at its best. Barafundle Bay is one of the most beautiful beaches in Britain. Its accessability being only on foot from over the cliffs makes the beach stand out in glory from its dunes to the sea without the crowds. Cliff views stand in awe from right to left whenever you turn to the sea. Stacks of rock rising from the sea shaped through time bring a fantasy feel to the scene. Below are only a small percentage of what I experienced on only a small percentage of this wonderous place.

The hounds ready for the descent to the gorgeous Barafundle Bay.

Broad Haven – A beautiful bay that attracts hikers, surfers, canoeists, beach lovers et al.

Stack Rocks – Pillars of limestone, a haven for thousands of nesting seabirds

I loved it, the hounds loved it, and even the weather started to love us more as the day progressed. If these few miles today threw up all the scenes above and more all I can say is bring on the rest of it soon… please.

Yesterday, I took to the coasts of Pembrokeshire. Every turn brought new surprises. This coastal National Park has more than just incredible scenes in all directions but holds a real visible history that can be experienced and seen without going far at all. Whilst here for a couple of days it would have been foolish not to get a feel of this myself and give the boots a little rest.

Pembroke Castle sits proudly in the town centre, a high wall of ruins invting you in to savour its history. A very important fortress from the 11th century Normans through the Tudors and the civil war. Over the centuries it has been built upon, changed to a home and ordered to be destroyed and yet today we are left with an intruiging and magical place to see and learn.

To be honest within every few miles you travel in Pembrokeshire there seems to be a castle. Each one individual, each with its own unique history and state. Even as you wind round the gorgeous country lanes and villages you find idyllic castles like Manorbier. A small beautifully walled castle from the Norman era. Built overlooking a quiet beach with gardens, rooms and dungeons to explore.

For grand views and walks galore there is Carew Castle. A ruins, celtic cross and the only restored and working tidal mill in Wales. Combine that with a 1 mile wheelchair/pram friendly circular walk, perfect for the hounds too A stunning place no matter what the weather. Fresh air abound.

Now this is unique, St Govan’s Chapel. Built down in a crack in the cliff face near to the village of Bosherton. Only accessable by stone steps winding down from the clifftop. Why down there? Tales and legends have brought together the story we know today. St Govan was a hermit chased here by pirates. He lived in a cave down there by the sea. In the 14th century a chapel was built over this cave. This story started to fascinate me, especially with the location and seeing this little chapel there. More of the legend can be found here and I really suggest you go see it yourself!

All this history on its own was only within a few miles of my base. Celtic Haven. And Celtic Haven is a part of history itself. An old 12th century farmstead now sitting as preserved holiday cottages. A truly tranquil place to be and base from. Without even leaving the front gates you can take in relaxation of golf, the indoor swimming pool with views galore, a fitness room and a spa/massage I can tell you from my own experience will leave you totally relaxed and more.

Pembrokeshire! I want more…. I shall be back!

I was back in South Wales, the Bridgend area to be more precise and ready for fresh air, beauty and miles underfoot. What a great way to start the adventures…. Hiking the Bridgend section of the Wales Coast Path from the dunes around Merthyr Mawr along to Kenfig Nature Reserve. Miles of coastal beauty, variety and plenty of history and legend to learn about.

Right from the beginning there was history. Merthyr Mawr itself was a beautiful small quiet place with its historic church and thatched cottages. My first couple of miles though took me through totally unique nature. The couple of miles of sand dunes to the beach. The warren of dunes are immense, sandy hill after sandy hill to wander over and around. Each one providing a magnificent viewing platform.  Deeper under the sand lays limestone, the dunes have rolled and formed over time on top of this to create the highest dunes in Britain. These vast dunes moved inland and the sand affected  populations. In the 1950s they planted sea-buckthorn to stabilise and stop the thread. This obviously had a massive and fast impact. Woods have formed, the dunes got covered in the buckthorn. To look at you couldn’t imagine only 70 years ago the scene was more like the Sahara Dessert with the huge dunes, in fact some scenes from the film Lawrence of Arabia was filmed here. Great work and care is being taken now to free the dunes of shrub and thorn. Current work is and has been underway to get rid of the sea-buckthorn and reduce the shrubbery to allow nature to be fully restored. A fascinating, unique and sandy start.

At the coastline it was time to head Westwards. Sea wind blowing in the face, a mix of weathers and even a rainbow joined us on Newton Beach.

Sand and sea to the left, blue skies and green hills to the right. A few miles along it was time to hit the town of Porthcawl. Skirting around the huge caravan site and amusement arcade the gorgeous rocks, sand and rolling sea of Rest Beach lays before you. No matter what the weather this beach shines out charm.

Very popular with surfers and walkers alike, golden sand laying out inviting all. Popular with surfers and on this day the kite surfers where enjoying the waves in their numbers. Dog walkers, family strollers and coast walkers taking it all in together.

Exiting Porthcawl the sea views keep on coming and to your right the course of Royal Porthcawl Golf Club pans out. Hardy golfers taking on the links. I had my eye on a mysterious looking building in the distance at this point. Bright yellow, standing out in the greenery. I wanted to learn more.

The lonely windswept building was originally built in the 12th Century by Cistercian monks. Since then it has had many residents and also more recently fell into disrepair. Tales of ghosts and past residents are still attached to the place. RD Blackmore’s Maid of Sker was based upon one such tale of a girl once apparently locked in a room with no way out there by her father who forbade her to see her lover. Today the yellow whitewash is a sign of restoration of the building to glory.

The house became the marker that I was nearing the dunes of Kenfig Nature Reserve, and the end of a fantastic walk along the miles of the Bridgend section of the Wales Coast Path. I must give a huge thank you to my hiking companion for the day, Ian Skinner @Isky11 .. A great bloke and superb font of local knowledge.

It was time to wander Kenfig Nature Reserve………..

I will camp anywhere and anyhow. Basic camping is not for everyone, especially with the good old summer we had this year. I was fortunate enough to experience camping in comfort recently in a yurt at Cwm Tawel near Bridgend. The yurts are traditional Mongolian nomadic dwellings and provide a fantastic luxury feel combined with a camping atmosphere. Each yurt can accommodate up to 5 people… For Cwm Tawel there is no need to pack a car load of logistics.. Almost everything is provided. You just need to turn up and enjoy getting away with the fresh air of the South Wales countryside.

Time of the year need not matter. I was of course there in November and although fresh outside the warmth of a log stove inside keeps the comfort levels high as you lay or sit on the fine furniture.

For cooking there are so many options.. each yurt has its own barbecue to be utilised or for a bigger treat the communal camp fire under cover has lots going on. Kettles, pans, stoves for cooking traditionally over the fire or why not use the cob/clay oven to make and cook your own pizzas? Gotta be done

Now then.. Cwm Tawel is not only a place to camp, relax and stay. If you want more they can give you more even if you are in Wales and want to try something different and local without stopping over. Why not try one of their outdoor crafts and skills courses? Cob building…. Willow basket making.. Foraging… Coracle building and much much much more!

I took part in making a spoon from a branch of Ash Tree… Under super guidance from Phil I was soon sawing away, trimming a shape and then sat by the campfire whittling the final touches. I must say it was one of the most calming and relaxing things I have done. Productive and learning too.

I lay my spoon next to Phil’s masterpieces.. Can you guess which is mine?

What better way to put it to the test? Than to use it to eat a traditional Welsh Cawl that had been stewing wonderfully over the fire… delicious!

This experience here helped create a wonderful weekend away with the walking too. If you would like to learn lots more then vist their website.

Looking down the Garw Valley .. A great local are to wander and explore

For lots more information on things to do in the Bridgend area then go to Dare To Discover .. Twitter @Daretodiscover 

At the very end of the Bridgend section of the Wales Coast Path I had posted about earlier I came upon Kenfig Nature Reserve. A calm, surreal beautiful remnant of what was a huge sand dune system that in a bygone age ran from the Ogmore River along to the Gower Peninsular. I had reached this little corner of Bridgend county on foot from the coast. Sker Beach lay out before me, its own huge history of shipwrecks. leading me inland to explore more.

The green covered rolling dunes were all I could see as far as I looked. A place to wander through and around in nature, a very different nature. Walking over the sand as I learnt more I realised that history lay before my feet. Kenfig, the original Kenfig was buried under the sand in the middle ages. The wind and drifting dunes covered what was once a thriving place. Hard to believe when you look at it now, nature takes its toll in so many powerful ways. The green over the dunes came from a much later plan to stop the sand tide taking over more land.

Today as a nature reserve the marvel and beauty here is open to all. Walking around the high dunes I met the occasional dog walker, bird watcher or family enjoying some fresh air. Larger than it looks you could take hours exploring here and not meet many at all, total escapeism.

Flower and bird enthusiasts have a deep love for the place. So many diverse and rare life can be found here. One of the few places that Bittern can be found in Winter.  The Fen Orchid for instance, of all in Britain, 90 per cent are found here at Kenfig. The pools that have formed are teeming with life and invertebrates. I couldn’t help thinking what a whole year cycle of visiting here could bring.

The green you see that was once designed to protect villages has now become too much so and the dunes are too stabilised, especially for nature to thrive as it should have. For instance the very rare Fen Orchid has been counted as going from 10,000 in number in the 90s to just 400 last year. Speaking to the rangers you feel the passion and care in this place. So much hard work is being done to preserve, protect and the huge huge task of getting some of the dunes back to their former natural sand showing state. A truly fascinating place.

After the wandering I was a little parched so headed to the Prince of Wales Pub. In the 1600s as the old Kenfig was abandoned from the sand, this pub was originally the Town Hall. The food was incredible! Local sourced meats combined with my try and enjoyment of Laverbread. Upstairs I was treated to an enthusiastic and great tour of the old town hall by the landlord. So much has happened up there, so much still remains. Stories of fact in a glorious and well documented history combined with stories of legend and ghosts. Go see for yourself

Next week (29-31 July) I am heading back to the stunning South coast of Wales… Specifically the area around Swansea!

The itinerary is not set and I would like to take this opportunity to let you help craft it. The Visit Wales website is full of great ideas. Beautiful Bays like Three Cliffs and Rhossili, art museums, famous ice cream, seascapes and landscapes on Gower Peninsular and so much more.

Many of you will have been and many of you will have some great ideas for things to see, do and places to explore in the Swansea area. Please let us know below or on the Wales FB Page. Maybe you have a super, less well known tip, that needs to be shared to many! I am looking forward to experiencing your ideas, camera at the ready, exploration of a beautiful part of the country ahoy!

It was time to head to South Wales again, this time a couple of days in the Swansea area. It is always a joy to head to this coastline, truly one of the best in Britain. Even more so for hikers. My base was on the beautiful Gower Peninsular, truly a gem of the country. The hounds needed a leg stretch, I was dying to get out and about seeing some great scenery. Three Cliffs Bay it was to be.

Three Cliffs Bay sits right on the south of the peninsular. From the car park up top (Three Cliffs Bay Holiday Park) it is a walk down and down to the bay itself.. First though you turn a corner and see why it is voted in many places as one of the top views in Britain.

A wide and large sandy cove surrounded and hidden from all sides by lush green landscape. Unmistakable are the three pointy cliffs that give the name, that in line poke into the bay. Dogs are not allowed on every beach these days but this is one that are allowed year round. Monty, Jasmine, time to get your sand feet on!

So much space that even if it was really busy on a summer’s hot Sunday it would not mean packed in together. Even on this day there were lots having fun. Surfers, kite flyers, beach cricket, paddling in both the sea and the river that runs through. Paragliders swirled in for a landing too. Of course there were some there for walking too like me. Either side of the bay the cliffs and outcrops, dune then green underfoot.

Overlooking the bay up on Pennard Pill is Pennard Castle. The ruins stand on the hilltop horizon Once a mighty castle home in the 12th century through to a settlement then abandoned in about 1400 through moving sand, and what is left is there to see today, together with tales of hauntings and fairies.

The little legs of the hounds in the deep sand had taken its toll. It was time for a scenic rest…

I could have wandered here all day or even more than that, it was a perfect spot wether you was walking, reflecting or having beach fun. But, so much to see and the day was still young, it was time to move along the coast to a new fantastic view.

If you would like to see some great ideas for mini breaks in Wales you can find lots here at Visit Wales.

Swansea and the Gower Peninsular is one spectacular piece of coastline. As I stated in the Three Cliffs Bay post you can’t really go wrong on any stretch of the South Wales coastline. Just 20 minutes or so along from Three Cliffs Bay you come to the headland of The Mumbles, or sometimes known as Oystermouth. The Mumbles, Love that name! Where does it come from? Well in these photos you will see the two small island rising out of the sea in a certain shape. The strongest case you find from history for the name is French sailors of noting their similarity with breasts ‘mammelles’.

This headland of The Mumbles is known by many as the gateway to the Gower Peninsular at the other end of Swansea bay from the City. Only a few miles outside Swansea to the West it lays claim to not only natural beauty and a sense of ‘wow’ but plenty of history to go with it. The Victorian pier was built in 1898 and has come a long way back to glory thanks to current refurbishing. I could see many enjoying lunch in the sun on the pier with views across to Swansea across the Bay. Such wide views.

Rich in Limestone the headland was quarried long ago. To take the goods to Swansea a railway was built. That was in 1804. In 1807 it became the first fare-paying passenger railway in the world, tourism became a draw to the headland at the time. The railway continued, drawn through all incarnations of power in time, horse, sail, steam, electric petrol and diesel, a world record for number of types. It was finally closed in 1960, and at that time it was of course the longest serving railway in history. Today it is buses, car parks and a great long promenade in place. So much going on around the corner from peaceful coast. A little of everything.

If you want an incredible sea view to simply admire or to take some peace then there is a car park up top, head on up past the pier. From there you get the views over The Mumbles, over Swansea Bay and I found it to be the least busiest spot. incredible. The great white lighthouse that sits on the outer island of Mumbles Head was built in 1794. It is unmistakable and can’t be missed from view all the way around Swansea bay, all five miles of it.

Finally, another treat! In this car park up here sits the ‘Big Apple’, to buy ice-cream of course.. A great landmark here in its own right since the 1930s, it would have been rude not to . As you wander the area you get to see that ice cream parlours are plenty abound to be honest. spoilt for choice. An a sea view to boot!

After exploring some of the Gower coastline it was time to go into Swansea itself and to the maritime quarter, I headed to the building that hosts the exhibition – Dylan Thomas: Man and Myth. Dylan Thomas is probably known as Wales’ most famous poet and writer. Born in Swansea (1914), it is thus natural for all that seek to learn more about him to head this way. His words, voice and fame took him far and wide especially across the Atlantic, so when this 19th century building was refurbished in 1995 to be opened as the Dylan Thomas Centre, it was opened by a fan of his, ex US President Jimmy Carter.

Dylan Thomas was a poet, a play writer, a story writer, a radio and film writer and gave live broadcasts over radio and on stage too, that gave him even more fame. The world’s first true multi-media star don’t you think? The level of fame and his private life has led to many stories of adultery and alcohol. He liked his drink and it is also true he liked his women. Some say he hardly drank when they saw him, especially when he was home in Wales. Myths have grown and debate runs high on his genius. A remarkable man with a remarkable talent whose untimely death in New York (1953) aged just 39 also led to myths of alcohol, a shoddy doctor or was it pneumonia. The suit below is the one he was wearing during his time in New York.

I am not here to give a run down on everything I learnt and saw. I found it fascinating to come and learn for myself. If you are in the Swansea area then you do not need to plan it into a full day. Pop in and discover Dylan Thomas amongst the largest collections of memorabilia. From his early life in Swansea, all the way through. His distinctive voice plays through speakers reciting his work as you wander and learn.

It is believed he was most studios and productive when in his homeland. When living in Laugharne he had his writing shed. The doors below were saved from the council rubbish tip in the 70s.

The show of interesting things ranges from personal items to photographs as a child. Even his one and only piece of art is on display. Dylan was certainly a note-maker.. These two sheets of original notes by him show how he thought and thought about each line.

He inspired so many, his name and image appearing in so many ways that you will have inadvertently come across him wether intentionally or not! The front cover of The Beatles Sgt pepper album. Bob Dylan changing his name from Zimmerman in honour of him. Catherine Zeta Jones and Michael Douglas named their son Dylan after him. In fact Catherine’s production company is named Milkwood, that comes from the title of Dylan’s most famous radio drama and stage play, Under Milk Wood (1954). The main street of that work, about the lives and thoughts of residents in cobbled streets of a fishing village? – Coronation Street. Finally I leave you with a sense of his mischievous humour… The name of that play’s fishing village, the very Welsh sounding Llareggub, now read it backwards

Back outside in Swansea there is a Dylan Thomas Trail around Swansea that enables you to discover where he spent time as a youngster or later where he worked and frequented.